Seeing an article Friday in one of my favorite jewelry newsletters on the outcome of the Tiffany & Co. vs. Costco ruling over the name “Tiffany Setting” becoming generic and the right to use the name – sparked my interest in the history of when and who created the “Tiffany Setting”. I admit I have used this term with client’s in the past to give a fast verbal description of a diamond solitaire setting with a metal claw that grips the diamond tightly holding it in place, known as a prong. The benefit of this type of setting is that there is minimum metal surrounding the diamond and this is the creation of Charles Lewis Tiffany.
Charles Lewis Tiffany (father of Lewis Comfort Tiffany, famous for brilliant leaded glass and enameled Jewels) debuted the Tiffany® Setting in 1886 – it was the first ring design to lift the diamond off the band allowing more light to pass through the diamond adding to its brilliance. Historically diamond rings had been set in Bezels – with metal surrounding the diamond and set within the band. Though the engagement ring has been credited back to the Romans and the first known diamond engagement ring was commissioned in 1477 by the Archduke Maximillian of Austria for his betrothed, Mary of Burgundy the innovative Tiffany® Setting style became immensely popular and today is still a top selling engagement ring style also known as the classic solitaire.
TIffany & Co.
Bezel set solitaire
Tiffany won the case with the judge ruling that the term Tiffany has not become generic and is still a protected trademark.
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